Painting Services

Glass. It’s sleek. It’s shiny. And let’s be real—it’s a pain in the neck to paint. But hey, that’s what makes it fun, right? Whether you’re jazzing up old mason jars, refreshing your office window decor, or giving that dusty glass vase a second chance at life, painting on glass is one of those oddly satisfying DIY projects. Now, if you’ve ever asked yourself “How to paint glass without it peeling, streaking, or looking like a crime scene?”—you’re in the right place. Grab your glassware, flex those creative muscles, and let’s walk through this together like DIY besties. FYI: You don’t need to be an artist to make it look awesome. Table of Contents Why Paint Glass? Let’s address the obvious—why bother painting glass in the first place? I mean, isn’t it already perfect in its crystal-clear glory? Well, not always. Personalization: Want to label your pantry jars or match your decor? Paint it! Upcycling: That old wine bottle? Boom—vase. Seasonal Decor: Painted window glass for Halloween, Christmas, or whatever vibe you’re on. Functional Use: A chalkboard-painted glass menu for your kitchen? Yes, please. Painting on glass can turn boring surfaces into something actually worth looking at. Plus, it’s cheaper than buying new stuff, so your wallet will thank you too. How to Paint Glass Ah yes, the reason you’re here: how to paint glass and not end up crying over a streaky, flaky mess. Here’s your foolproof guide: 1. Choose Your Surface Not all glass is created equal. You can paint on: Glass bottles and jars Windows Glass tabletops Acrylic glassware Frames, panels, and even mirrors Basically, if it’s shiny and smooth, you can slap some paint on it. 2. Clean Like You Mean It Before you paint, you’ve got to clean your glass like you’re prepping it for surgery. Use: Rubbing alcohol or white vinegar Lint-free cloth (no, your gym towel doesn’t count) No grease, no fingerprints, no dust. Period. 3. How to Prepare Glass for Painting This step gets skipped more than it should. Don’t be that person. Lightly sand the glass if it’s super smooth. A scuff helps the paint stick. Wipe down again. Yes, again. Consider using a glass primer if your paint doesn’t specify adhesion on slick surfaces. How to prepare glass is the difference between paint that stays and paint that peels off faster than a cheap sticker. 4. Apply the Paint (Finally) Time to get messy (in a controlled way). Use: A soft brush for detail A sponge for texture A stencil if you want it neat (or you’re just not confident in your freehand skills—no shame) Apply thin coats and let each coat dry before adding another. Rushing = regrets. Types of Glass Paint Choosing the best paint for glass can feel like standing in the cereal aisle for too long—everything looks the same until it’s in your cart and you’re home crying. Here’s a breakdown: Acrylic Enamel Paint – Great for durability. Sticks like a champ. Solvent-Based Paint – Gives vibrant color and is water-resistant. Smells… intense. Stained Glass Paint – Perfect if you’re going for that artsy, translucent vibe. Chalk Paint – Lovely for a frosted or matte look. Acrylic Paint – Works on glass if you seal it correctly. Looking for something fancy? Try a glass paint palette that includes multiple finishes and colors. Just don’t go rogue with leftover wall paint—paint for glass needs to be the real deal. Tips for a Professional Finish Want your painted glass to look like you bought it from Etsy and not a kindergarten craft fair? Try these: Thin coats only – Patience, my friend. Let it cure – Some paints need 24-72 hours. Respect the dry time. Seal the deal – Use a clear acrylic sealant or bake the glass (if your paint says it’s safe). Handle with care – Even the best-painted glass can scratch. Treat it like it’s handmade by unicorns. Best way to paint glass? Follow instructions, don’t rush, and treat your project like it owes you money. When to Call a Professional Glass Painter So here’s the thing—painting glass is fun, but it’s also a lot of work if you’re doing large surfaces like painting on a window glass or full acrylic painting in glass installations. If your project starts looking more “Pinterest fail” than “gallery-worthy,” don’t sweat it. Call in the pros. There’s zero shame in letting experts handle the heavy lifting—especially when you want a finish that lasts. San Diego Home Remodeling offers painting services that cover everything from detailed indoor glass decor to full-scale glass window treatments. We get it right the first time—no peeling, no patchy mess. Conclusion So there you have it—your complete, honest, slightly sarcastic guide on how to paint glass without losing your mind (or your Sunday afternoon). Whether you’re doodling on a wine glass or tackling an entire set of acrylic panels, you’ve now got the know-how to crush it. Be bold. Be colorful. Be that person who says “Yeah, I made that” with pride. And hey—if you ever get stuck or want a professional touch, you know who to call. FAQs What kind of paint do you use on glass? Use acrylic enamel, stained glass paint, or solvent-based glass paints. These stick well and last longer than regular paint. How to permanently paint on glass? Use the right paint, prep the glass properly, and bake it in the oven (if the paint allows). Or seal it with a strong clear acrylic sealant. How do you paint glass so it doesn’t peel? Clean thoroughly, lightly sand, use quality paint, and seal it. Also—let it dry completely between coats. That’s not optional. Do you need primer to paint on glass? Sometimes. If your paint isn’t specifically for glass, then yes—a primer helps it stick and stay. Is acrylic paint ok for glass? Yes, but only with prep and sealing. Acrylic is easy to use, but without sealing it can flake off like a bad sunburn. Use acrylic enamel,

Ever started a painting project only to watch your hard work bubble, crack, or peel off within weeks? Trust me, I’ve been there, and it’s beyond frustrating. The secret to avoiding this nightmare lies in understanding outdoor painting temperature and weather conditions. Getting the temperature right can mean the difference between a stunning, long-lasting finish and a costly do-over that’ll have you questioning your DIY skills. Table of Contents Optimal Temperature to Paint: 35ºF to 100º, Low Humidity Here’s the golden rule that every painter swears by: the ideal temperature range for painting outdoors is 35ºF to 100ºF. This isn’t just some random number someone pulled out of thin air – there’s real science behind it. When temperatures drop below 35ºF, paint basically goes into hibernation mode. The chemical reactions that help paint cure properly slow down dramatically, leaving you with a finish that’s about as durable as wet tissue paper. On the flip side, when it’s scorching hot above 100ºF, paint dries so fast you’ll see brush marks before you can say “professional finish.” But here’s where it gets interesting – low humidity is your best friend. The ideal humidity range is 40-70%, and trust me, this matters more than you might think. I learned this the hard way when I painted my deck on a humid summer day. The paint took forever to dry, and I ended up with a finish that looked like it had been attacked by a swarm of mosquitoes. Quick temperature check tips: Use a digital thermometer for accurate readings Check both air and surface temperatures Monitor weather forecasts for the next 24-48 hours Consider seasonal patterns in your area Pro Tip: The best time to paint outside is when the temperature is between 50°F and 85°F, and humidity is under 70%. Why the fuss? Because paint doesn’t just need to stick—it needs to set. And weather messes with that more than you’d think. Paint Temperature, Surface Temperature, Humidity and Rain Paint Temperature Considerations Ever tried painting with cold paint straight from the garage? It’s like trying to spread peanut butter straight from the fridge – not fun. Cold paint behaves completely differently than room temperature paint. It’s thicker, doesn’t flow well, and can leave you with an uneven finish that screams “amateur hour.” Store your paint in a climate-controlled environment when possible. If you’re dealing with latex paint temperature issues, bring it inside 24 hours before painting. Your brush (and your sanity) will thank you. Surface Temperature Factors Here’s something that’ll blow your mind: surface temperature matters way more than air temperature. I’ve seen people paint on a cool 70ºF day, only to realize their south-facing wall was sitting at a toasty 95ºF from morning sun exposure. Hot surfaces over 90ºF create a whole host of problems: Paint dries too quickly Brush marks become permanent Adhesion suffers dramatically You’ll be cursing under your breath within minutes Pro tip: Invest in an infrared thermometer. It’s a game-changer for checking surface temps without playing guessing games. Humidity Impact High humidity is like that annoying friend who overstays their welcome – it extends drying time, creates adhesion problems, and increases mildew risk. Nobody wants moldy paint, trust me. Low humidity isn’t perfect either. It causes rapid drying, which means brush marks and an uneven finish that’ll make you want to start over. Rain and Weather Protection Rain is paint’s arch-nemesis. You need a minimum 4-6 hours of dry time before any moisture hits that fresh paint. Always check the weather forecast – and I mean really check it, not just a quick glance at your phone. Does Humidity Matter When Painting Outside? Oh yes—it absolutely matters. Want to know how to ruin a paint job fast? Paint during high humidity. High humidity = sticky paint that never dries, leading to blistering, peeling, or mildew Low humidity = paint dries too quickly and gets patchy, especially if the paint to dry period shortens too much Ideal humidity range? Aim for 40%–70%. Live in coastal San Diego? Yeah, you need to watch this like a hawk. Paint in the morning or late afternoon when humidity dips and the sun isn’t scorching. What is the Best Outdoor Painting Temperature? Let’s make this crystal clear: The best temperature to paint outdoors is between 50°F and 85°F with low wind and dry conditions. But we’re not done yet. Newer formulas allow painting in temperatures as low as 35°F (yay for late fall projects!) Direct sunlight? Avoid it. It speeds up drying unevenly. Stick to the shade, and chase it as you work. Season matters too—spring and early fall are your best bets for ideal temperatures and lower humidity. IMO, painting outside of the house when it’s freezing or sweltering? Hard pass. Best Paint For Outdoors Picking the right type of paint is as crucial as picking the right day. Here’s what works best: Acrylic latex: The all-star. Great flexibility, fast drying, excellent for temps in the 50s–80s. Oil-based paint: More durable, takes longer to cure, but handles cooler temps better. Specialty paints: Designed for extreme temperatures or surfaces that expand/contract a lot. Key Features to Look For: UV resistance (San Diego sun is no joke) Mildew resistance (for coastal areas with high moisture) Flexible finishes that can handle expansion/contraction Pro Tip: Always check the house paint temperature range on the label. Some paints are more forgiving than others. Call San Diego Home Remodeling for Professional Exterior House Painting Services Look—we get it. You could DIY this. But if your paint starts bubbling, cracking, or fading in six months because you painted in the wrong weather conditions, was it really worth it? Here’s the truth:Improper temperature ruins even the best paint job. But our pros know San Diego’s weather inside and out. We use the right products, prep your surface, and paint at the perfect time. Get it done right the first time contact San Diego Home Remodeling for expert exterior painting services in San Diego. Conclusion When it comes to

Yes, you can paint vinyl siding, but only if it’s in good condition and you follow specific rules. The key is using 100% acrylic vinyl-safe paint in a shade lighter than or equal to your current color. Darker colors absorb more heat and can warp your siding, leading to expensive repairs. When done correctly with proper surface preparation and quality materials, painted vinyl siding can last 7-10 years and cost 60-70% less than full replacement. Here’s what 23 years of painting vinyl siding across San Diego County has taught us: most failures happen because homeowners skip the prep work or use the wrong paint type. This guide covers everything you need to know, from cost breakdowns to step-by-step instructions, so you can make the right decision for your home. Table of Contents Should You Paint Vinyl Siding? Pros & Cons Before you grab a brush, let’s look at both sides of this decision based on real projects we’ve completed. Pros of Painting Vinyl Siding Cost savings are significant. Painting vinyl siding costs between $2.50-$4.50 per square foot in San Diego, while replacement runs $8-$12 per square foot. For a typical 1,500 square foot home, that’s $3,750-$6,750 for painting versus $12,000-$18,000 for replacement. Color customization opens up options. Standard vinyl siding comes in 25-30 factory colors. When you repaint vinyl siding, you access thousands of vinyl safe paint colors from manufacturers like Benjamin Moore, Sherwin-Williams, and Behr. We recently transformed a dated yellow vinyl siding home in Scripps Ranch to a modern charcoal gray using Sherwin-Williams Duration with VinylSafe technology. Environmental benefits matter. Painting siding on house exteriors keeps roughly 2,000 pounds of vinyl waste out of landfills per average home. In California, where environmental regulations are strict, this makes a difference. Curb appeal increases immediately. Fresh exterior paint for vinyl siding can boost home value by 2-5% according to local San Diego real estate data. That’s $10,000-$25,000 on a $500,000 home. Cons of Painting Vinyl Siding Warranty concerns are real. Most vinyl siding manufacturers void warranties if you paint their product. Check your warranty documents before starting. If your siding is less than 10 years old and still under warranty, painting might not be worth it. Maintenance cycles shorten. While unpainted vinyl siding can last 20-30 years without major work, painted vinyl needs repainting every 7-10 years depending on sun exposure. South-facing walls in San Diego’s intense sun may need attention sooner. Application errors cause problems. Using regular exterior paint instead of best paint for vinyl siding leads to peeling within 1-2 years. We’ve repaired dozens of DIY jobs where homeowners used standard latex paint instead of 100% acrylic formulas designed for plastic surfaces. Dark color restrictions limit choices. Vinyl has a heat tolerance rating. Paint a light-colored siding dark brown or black, and summer temperatures can warp the panels. This happens because vinyl expands and contracts with temperature changes. What to Consider Before Painting Vinyl Siding The difference between a beautiful, lasting finish and a peeling disaster comes down to two critical, expert rules: color choice and paint type. 1. The Critical LRV Rule (Light Reflectance Value) This is the most important piece of advice you will receive about painting vinyl cladding (or plastic siding). What is LRV? LRV is a number, typically a percentage from $0$ (pure black, absorbs all light) to $100$ (pure white, reflects all light). It measures how much light and heat a color absorbs. The Warping Risk: Standard vinyl is engineered to handle only a certain amount of heat. If you paint a light, high-LRV siding with a dark, low-LRV color, the dark color will absorb excessive heat from the sun. This heat will cause the plastic siding to soften, leading to permanent warping and buckling on your home. The Expert Solution: Vinyl-Safe Paint. Major brands like Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore solved this problem with vinyl-safe paint technology. This paint uses special pigments that reflect solar heat even in darker shades, allowing you to safely paint a lighter vinyl siding a darker color. Safety Threshold: If you cannot confirm a color is “vinyl-safe,” stick to colors with an LRV of $50$ or higher. 2. Choosing the Best Paint for Vinyl Siding You must choose a paint that is both highly adhesive and flexible. Type: $100%$ Acrylic Exterior Paint. This is non-negotiable. Acrylic paint maintains its flexibility even when fully cured, allowing it to move, expand, and contract with the vinyl as the temperature changes. This movement prevents cracking and peeling. Look for premium product lines known for vinyl adhesion, like Sherwin-Williams Duration or Resilience. Sheen: Satin or Eggshell. These finishes strike the perfect balance. They are durable, easy to clean, and hide minor imperfections in the siding better than a glossy finish, which will only highlight every scratch. The Primer Question: For vinyl that is faded, chalky (oxidation), or was previously unpainted, a high-quality bonding primer is highly recommended. It acts as the anchor, maximizing the adhesion of the topcoat. Tips for Painting Vinyl Siding These professional tips come from fixing common mistakes we see across San Diego County. Surface Preparation Is Everything Proper cleaning removes oxidation, the chalky residue that prevents paint adhesion. Mix this cleaning solution: 1 gallon water 1 cup oxygen bleach (not chlorine) 1/4 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) 2 tablespoons dish soap Apply with a soft brush, let sit for 10 minutes, then pressure wash at 1,500 PSI. Hold the nozzle at 45-degree angle, 12-18 inches from the surface. Don’t spray straight at seams or you’ll force water behind the siding. Choose Professional-Grade Products We’ve tested every major brand over the years. These deliver the best results: Benjamin Moore Regal Select Exterior – Excellent adhesion, 25-year warranty when applied correctly. Their Pearl finish hides surface imperfections better than flat or semi-gloss. Sherwin-Williams Duration with VinylSafe Technology – Our top pick for color changes. The VinylSafe formula allows darker colors without warping. Covers in one coat on light-colored vinyl. Behr Premium Plus Exterior – Budget-friendly option that still delivers 7-8

Can you paint over polyurethane? Yes, you absolutely can. This project is possible on furniture, cabinets, and doors when you use the correct process. I’ve refinished hundreds of pieces over 12 years, and I’ll show you exactly how to make paint stick permanently. The secret isn’t the paint. It’s the preparation. Most DIY paint jobs fail within six months because people skip the sanding step or use the wrong primer. Follow this guide, and your painted surface will last 10+ years. Table of Contents What Is Polyurethane? Polyurethane is a liquid plastic that dries into a hard, clear coating on wood. Think of it as an invisible shield protecting your furniture, cabinets, and floors from scratches, water damage, and daily wear. There are two types you’ll encounter: Oil based polyurethane creates the toughest finish but turns yellow over time. It takes 24 hours between coats and smells strong during application. This is what you’ll find on most older furniture and wood floors. Water based polyurethane stays crystal clear and dries in just 2-4 hours. It has less smell and works great for light-colored wood. Most modern furniture uses this type. Here’s the problem: both types create a slick, non-porous surface that repels paint. The glossy polyurethane surface acts like glass. Paint simply slides off without proper prep work. When you try painting polyurethane wood without preparation, the paint looks fine initially. Then after a few weeks, it starts peeling at the edges. Within months, entire sections chip off with normal use. Recommended Supplies for Painting Over Polyurethane Having the right tools makes this project easier and prevents costly mistakes. Here’s what you actually need: Surface Prep Tools: 120 grit sandpaper and 220 grit sandpaper for creating texture Orbital sander (saves hours on larger pieces) Lint free cloth for dust removal TSP cleaner or degreaser (dish soap doesn’t cut through buildup) Tack cloth for final dust pickup Primers and Paints: Oil based primer (shellac-based works best for adhesion) High-quality latex paint over polyurethane or oil based paint 2-inch angled brush for detail work Foam roller for smooth, brush-mark-free surfaces Safety Gear: N95 mask (polyurethane creates toxic sanding dust) Safety glasses Chemical-resistant gloves Box fan for ventilation Skip the cheap brushes from the dollar store. They shed bristles into your paint job and leave visible streaks. Spend $12 on a good brush instead. Many people ask about liquid sandpaper as a shortcut. It works okay for small projects but doesn’t create the same mechanical grip as real sanding. For kitchen cabinets or heavily used furniture, actual sanding wins every time. How To Professionally Paint Over Polyurethane I’ve tested dozens of methods of painting over urethane on client projects. This process gives the best results with the least chance of failure. Step 1: Test Your Surface (5 Minutes) Before you start sanding, run this quick adhesion test. Press painter’s tape firmly onto the polyurethane surface. Burnish it down hard with your thumb. Yank it off quickly. If the finish comes off with the tape, you have bigger problems. The existing coating is failing and needs complete removal. Save yourself the headache and strip it instead of painting over it. If the tape comes off clean, you’re good to proceed with painting. Step 2: Deep Clean Everything (20-30 Minutes) This step prevents 40% of paint adhesion failures I see. Mix TSP cleaner according to the bottle directions. Use a sponge with a scrubby side and work in circular motions. Kitchen cabinets need extra attention. Years of cooking grease create an invisible film that blocks paint adhesion. Even if the surface looks clean, it’s not. Wipe everything twice, then rinse with clean water on a fresh cloth. For furniture that’s been treated with spray polish, you need to remove the silicone buildup. It causes fish-eye defects where the paint pulls away in circles. Use mineral spirits on a clean rag to cut through silicone residue. Let everything dry completely. Wait at least 30 minutes before moving to the next step. Step 3: Sand to Create Tooth (1-2 Hours) This is where most people mess up. You’re not trying to remove the polyurethane. You’re creating microscopic scratches that give the primer something to grip. Start with 120 grit sandpaper on all flat surfaces. Sand in the direction of the wood grain using steady pressure. You should see the glossy sheen disappear as you work. Keep sanding until every inch looks uniformly dull with no shiny spots. Here’s the test: scratch the surface lightly with your fingernail. If it leaves a white mark, you’ve sanded enough. If the surface is still too smooth for your nail to mark, keep sanding. Switch to 220 grit sandpaper for your final pass. This removes the deeper scratches from the coarser paper while keeping the texture you created. For detailed areas like chair spindles or carved furniture, fold your sandpaper and work it into the grooves. Don’t skip the details. Any glossy spot left behind will cause the paint to peel later. Step 4: Remove Every Speck of Sanding Dust (15 Minutes) Polyurethane dust is slightly waxy and sticks to surfaces. You can’t just wipe it away with a dry cloth. First, vacuum everything with a brush attachment. Get into all the corners and crevices. Then wipe surfaces with a lint free cloth dampened (not soaked) with water. Follow up with a tack cloth to grab the remaining fine particles. Use a bright LED light held at an angle to spot dust you missed. Any dust left behind creates bumps in your final paint job. Step 5: Apply Based Primer Correctly (2 Hours with Drying) This is the most important step. Your primer creates the bridge between the slick polyurethane surface and your new paint. Use the wrong primer, and your entire project fails. Oil based primer is your best choice when painting over poly. Yes, it smells bad. Yes, cleanup requires mineral spirits. But it soaks into the wood and bonds to the polyurethane in ways water-based primers can’t

Think painting melamine cabinets is a no-go? Think again. With the right prep, tools, and paint, you can breathe new life into those glossy cabinet doors without ripping them out. Painting melamine cabinets is easier than you think and yes, it sticks when done right. Let’s break it all down. Table of Contents What Are Thermofoil, Laminate, and Melamine? Before we pick up a brush, let’s clear up the confusion. These three are often tossed around like they’re the same thing. Spoiler alert: they’re not. Melamine: A plastic-based resin coating baked onto particleboard or MDF. It’s super durable and moisture-resistant, but not the friendliest surface for paint. Laminate: Think of laminate as melamine’s shinier cousin. It’s a hard plastic sheet glued to a substrate and often used on countertops or cabinet faces. Thermofoil: A thin vinyl layer that’s heat-sealed onto engineered wood. It mimics real wood but peels easily with heat or moisture. Each of these materials is affordable and commonly found in kitchens and bathrooms. The catch? They’re slick. Paint doesn’t just magically stick. That’s where smart prep and the right products come in. Tips for Painting Melamine Cabinets Alright, ready to give those melamine cabinets a glow-up? Here’s what you need to know—straight, simple, and no fluff. Gather the Right Supplies Let’s not wing it. Here’s your go-to checklist: Paint: High-quality latex, acrylic, or chalk paint. For pro results, consider painting with melamine paint made for slick surfaces. Primer: Unless you’re using bonding paint, don’t skip it. Additives: Something like UltraBond to improve stickiness (FYI, it’s worth it). Tools: Foam rollers for a brush-stroke-free finish Drop cloths (unless you like scrubbing paint off floors) Painter’s tape for clean edges 120-grit sandpaper for roughening the surface Lint-free cloths to wipe everything clean Repair Any Damage First Scratches, dents, chipped edges? Fix them before you paint. Use wood filler for gouges, then sand it smooth. Trust me a sloppy surface = a sloppy finish. Remove All Cabinet Hardware Yes, it’s annoying. No, you can’t skip it. Take off the knobs, handles, and hinges. If you’re lazy (hey, no judgment), at least tape them up. Lightly Sand the Surface Here’s the deal: melamine isn’t wood, so you’re not opening up grain. You’re just scuffing the surface enough so paint can grip. Use 120-grit sandpaper and don’t press too hard—you’re not sanding a deck. After sanding? Grab a damp lint-free cloth and wipe it all down. Apply Thin, Even Coats of Paint The magic words here are thin coats. If you glob it on, it’ll bubble or peel. Instead: Start with a primer if needed Let it dry completely (watch that drying time) Roll on your first coat of paint Let it dry again, then add a second coat Pro tip: Use a foam roller or spray gun for the smoothest look. Brushes work but may leave marks. Seal for Durability Want your hard work to last? Top coat it. Use a clear sealer or finishing wax that’s compatible with your paint. Especially in kitchen cabinets, this adds water resistance and protects against scratches. If you’re repainting melamine cabinets in high-traffic areas (hello, toddlers), sealing isn’t optional—it’s survival. Painting Melamine Kitchen Cabinets with San Diego Home Remodeling Look, DIY is fun. But sometimes you want the job done fast, flawless, and without three trips to the hardware store. That’s where we come in. At San Diego Home Remodeling, we help homeowners tackle tricky surfaces like melamine and laminate every day. Our pros: Use the right paint for melamine (so it doesn’t peel off a week later) Prep and repair surfaces like it’s our job (because it is) Deliver smooth, clean finishes that actually last Whether you’re painting white melamine or modern gray cabinet doors, we know how to make them pop—without the DIY drama. Thinking of going pro? Check out our Painting Services in San Diego. Final Thoughts So, can melamine be painted? Heck yes. Just keep in mind—prep is everything. Rushing through the sanding, skipping the primer, or slapping on thick coats? That’s how you end up with peeling paint and regret. But follow the steps, take your time, and seal it right? Your melamine cabinets can look just as good as custom wood. And if DIY isn’t your vibe, San Diego Home Remodeling is here to help. Because let’s be honest, sometimes it’s just easier to let the pros handle it. FAQs Can melamine cabinets be painted? Yes, absolutely. As long as you clean, sand, and prep the surface properly, paint will adhere. What paint will stick to melamine? Latex, acrylic, or specially formulated paint for melamine works best. Use a bonding agent for extra grip. Can you paint melamine cabinets without sanding? Technically? Yes. Should you? Nope. Roughening the surface gives the paint something to grab onto. Skip it and you’re asking for peeling. Will paint peel off laminate cabinets? Only if you skip the prep. Without sanding, priming, or sealing, paint can peel quickly—especially in kitchens with heat and moisture. Yes, absolutely. As long as you clean, sand, and prep the surface properly, paint will adhere. Latex, acrylic, or specially formulated paint for melamine works best. Use a bonding agent for extra grip. Technically? Yes. Should you? Nope. Roughening the surface gives the paint something to grab onto. Skip it and you’re asking for peeling. Only if you skip the prep. Without sanding, priming, or sealing, paint can peel quickly—especially in kitchens with heat and moisture.

Can you paint over stained wood? Yes, you can paint over stained wood with excellent, long-lasting results. The key is to shift your focus entirely from the top coat of paint to the surface preparation and, most importantly, choosing the correct stain-blocking primer. Skipping this step is the single biggest reason why DIY paint jobs fail and leave your project looking unprofessional. This guide provides the full professional process, combining decades of experience with product-specific tips, ensuring your new paint adheres perfectly and prevents any wood tannins or old oil stain bleed-through. We’ve broken down the steps to save you time and money. Table of Contents How to Paint Over Stained Wood The process takes 2-3 days from start to finish. Here’s the proven method that prevents peeling and bleed-through. Step 1: Clean the Surface Thoroughly Start with TSP cleaner or Simple Green to remove grease, dirt, and built-up grime. Kitchen cabinets especially need this step. Mix TSP according to package directions, scrub with a sponge, then rinse twice with clean water. Let the wood dry completely for at least 4 hours. Skip this step and your primer won’t bond properly. We’ve seen paint peel off in sheets because someone rushed past cleaning. Step 2: Fill Holes and Damage Use wood filler for small dings and scratches. For larger repairs or high-traffic areas like door frames, Bondo works better because it’s harder and sands smoother. Apply with a putty knife, overfill slightly, and let dry per manufacturer instructions (usually 30-60 minutes). Step 3: Degloss or Sand the Stained Surface This step separates amateur jobs from professional results. Stained wood has a clear coat (polyurethane or varnish) that’s slick as glass. Paint can’t grip it without proper prep. Option 1 – Sanding (Safer, More Work): Start with 150-grit sandpaper for the main surface Switch to 120-grit for stubborn glossy areas Finish with 220-grit for smoothness Sand until the surface feels slightly rough, not shiny Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth Option 2 – Liquid Sandpaper (Faster, More Dangerous): Products like Klean Strip deglosser work faster but require serious safety gear. You need chemical-resistant gloves, a respirator with organic vapor filters, and open all windows. The fumes are toxic to people and pets. Apply with a clean cloth, working in small sections. The surface will dull within seconds. Keep the house ventilated for 3-4 hours after use. Pro tip from our crew: We sand open areas with 150-grit and use liquid sandpaper only for tight corners and crevices. This gives the best results with less chemical exposure. Step 4: Apply Stain Blocking Primer This is where most DIY jobs go wrong. Regular primers won’t stop tannins from bleeding through. You need a true stain-blocking formula. For most projects: Kilz Premium (water-based) works well and costs $25-30 per gallon. Apply one coat. If you can still see brown tones showing through, add a second coat. Better safe than sorry. For problem stains or dark wood: BIN shellac-based primer is the gold standard. It’s alcohol-based, dries in 45 minutes, and blocks everything. Downside? It smells terrible and costs $35-40 per gallon. We keep a quart can for spot-priming knots and dark areas. Apply primer with a quality brush or roller. Don’t overwork it. One smooth coat is better than multiple thin passes. Let dry 2-3 hours (check the can). Sand lightly with 220-grit between coats if applying multiple primer coats. This creates a glass-smooth base for paint. Cost reality: Expect to spend $60-90 on primer and prep supplies for an average kitchen cabinet job. Step 5: Caulk Gaps and Joints Once the primer dries, caulk any gaps between trim pieces or where cabinets meet walls. Use painter’s caulk (not silicone) because it accepts paint better. Apply a thin bead, smooth with a damp cloth, and let dry overnight. Never caulk before priming because caulk bonds poorly to bare wood. Step 6: Apply Your Topcoat Now you’re ready for the final paint. Apply 2-3 thin coats rather than one thick coat. Thin coats dry smoother with fewer brush strokes. Sand lightly with 220-grit between coats. Wipe dust with a tack cloth before the next coat. Wait 4-6 hours between coats (longer in humid weather). Types of Paint That Can be Used on Stained Wood Match your paint type to the original stain for best results. Here’s what works: Oil-Based Paint Use over oil based stains. Creates an extremely durable finish perfect for cabinets, doors, and trim. Dries slowly (6-8 hours) but levels out beautifully with minimal brush marks. Pros: Hard, scratch-resistant finish that lasts 10+ years Cons: Strong odor, requires mineral spirits for cleanup, takes 24 hours to recoat Best for: Kitchen cabinets, exterior doors, high-traffic trim Cost: $40-60/gallon Primer needed: Oil based primer Latex Paint Water-based formula ideal for water-based stains. Dries fast (2-4 hours), easy cleanup, low odor. The most popular choice for DIY projects. Pros: Low VOCs, soap and water cleanup, affordable Cons: Not as durable as oil-based, shows brush strokes more Best for: Interior trim, furniture, bedroom cabinets Cost: $30-45/gallon Primer needed: Latex or water based primer Acrylic Paint Another water-based option that’s tougher than standard latex. Resists mildew and UV damage better. Pros: More durable than latex, flexible finish resists cracking Cons: More expensive than latex Best for: Bathroom vanities, exterior wood trim Cost: $45-65/gallon Primer needed: Latex primer Oil-Based Enamel The premium choice for cabinets and doors. Creates a furniture-quality finish that hardens over several weeks. Pros: Extremely hard finish, resists scratches and moisture Cons: Slow drying (overnight between coats), strong fumes Best for: Kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, front doors Cost: $50-75/gallon Primer needed: Oil based primer Benjamin Moore Advance Our team’s favorite for interior work. It’s a water-based alkyd that behaves like oil paint but cleans up with water. Dries slowly enough that brush strokes level out. Cost: $65-80/gallon but worth it for cabinets and built-ins. Wood Types and Stains That Can be Painted Not all wood behaves the same when you paint over stains.